Peter McBride
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Antique
and Old Tools
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Updated :- Tuesday, 21 October 2008
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Page 3
Making a dovetailed
infill bench rebate plane. page
1, page
2, page
3 page
4 page
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6 page
7 page
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6mm ( 1/4 in) mild steel is the choice of metal for the base. The
blade will be 54mm wide, and to allow a few mm each side I marked at
59 mm then used a 4 inch grinder with a cut-off wheel. I had a rethink
on the blade angle and re-cut the side opening to 47.5 Deg. the Norris
standard. With the bevel gauge at that angle, I marked and cut the
base in two with a hacksaw, then flipped the front upside down to get
the two bevels, front and back of the throat.
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To keep everything in alignment, I will be using only one side to gauge from
(next to the rule, below right). To mark the throat I used a square on that
side and marked across and then filed down to that line. Then with the bevel
gauge at 47.5 deg. I marked around the base and then filed flat to the front
edge. I repeated this on the front piece of the base. The angle there isn't
finalised yet because it will determine the throat opening, and can be altered
later with higher angle to widen the throat to suite the blade..
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The throat opening is only about 2.5mm, and will need to be closer to
6mm. I will get that by filing a higher angle on the base, and
reworking the brass just above it to get a fair curve to match in. I
placed a blade set and the lever over the side plate to confirm I'm on
the right path before I start to mark out the pins on the two base
pieces.
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I have a couple of options to make a block behind the blade to support
it above the bevel. One is to use three pins to rivet a block the same
thickness as the base in the traditional way, another is to insert a
plate across and between the side plates and use machine screws to fix
it there. ( can't decide yet )
Next step is to lay out and cut the pins.
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Page 4
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